Showing posts with label uganda. Show all posts
Showing posts with label uganda. Show all posts

Saturday, August 22, 2009

The secret life of chimpanzees


finally got to spend a whole day in the forest with the chimps yesterday. It was a perfect day for it too – lots of activity but they stayed on grid so we were able to follow them the whole time. At about 7:30 the males formed a hunting party and cornered a black and white colobus in the giant fig tree right by the camp. It was interesting to see the way they hunt; 2-3 males in the tree screaming and shouting to scare the thing into making a run for it, then at least 3 males on the ground waiting for the monkey to come down. As interesting as it was, though, I wasn’t sure I really wanted to see the colobus getting ripped in half – it was pretty small, probably not much more than a year or two old, and it was so terrified but still managed to muster a few threatening growls. And then, for seemingly no reason at all except for maybe boredom, the chimps stopped paying attention to it and wandered off to forage elsewhere. Talk about a lucky monkey.
At about 10:00 the chimps all decided to take a little nap up in the trees which is annoying because you can only crane your head up so long to watch them sleep before you realize youre giving yourself a neck ache for no reason. Luckily Zig, one of my favorite lil guys, decided to have his nap on the ground. He seems to be the most habituated out of all of them, or maybe just the most curious, because he is always around. He’ll just come right up to us and sit there, looking at us. He reminds me of someone I know but I cannot for the life of me place the face. I think it’s the expressions – its amazing how human they can seem, their faces have more muscles in them than most primates (aside from us), so they can convey an amazing range of emotions. I think maybe he reminds me of John Cage. Can anyone else see it?
Another almost freaky moment when one of the chimps seemed to be almost human was a few hours later when they were all at a clay site – a murky pond of clay soil which they eat to get nutrients. They would hold on to a tree root and then tip over so they were almost upside down to get the clay on the underside of the ledge without having to wade through the mud. This obviously causes some disorientation because now
and then someones butt would get in someone elses face and at one point Musa, a large male, became annoyed with Rachel and bit the hell out of her hand. Of course she starts screaming, looks down at her hand with huge eyes and then turns to us (about 2 meters away), holds her hand out towards us while holding it with the other hand and shakes it like ‘:ook! Look at what he did to my hand! Ouch!’ and then goes around to all of the other chimps doing the same, trying to rally them on her side until one of the other males starts yelling as well and chases Musa off. Then she just sits there, pouting and staring at her hand – I swear I thought she was going to cry. The best part of the day was when about 14 of the chimps all lined up on a large rotting log and groomed each other for hours. There was a lot of foliage surrounding the log so I didn’t get any great photos, but it was actually a blessing because some of the more shy chimps felt protected by it and allowed us to get closer than usual to them. Its so sweet to watch them all – males grooming females, females grooming males, adolescents grooming mothers, mothers grooming babies (which is hilarious because they are very squirmy so the mother spends a lot of time holding them down – one even held the baby upside down by one leg while she groomed him and he poked at her face), and of course everyone grooming the alpha.I made a lil composite of my favorite babies. Meet Zac, Marian, Rafia, Honey, Klaus and Sokomoko.


I don’t like to play favorites but yesterday we were following Honey and her mother Harriet down the trail at about 3m and all of a sudden Honey starts doing somersalts down the trail. First she went headfirst into about 3 somersalts, then she stood up on her legs looking dizzy, then proceeds to roll down the trail on her side, holding her feet with her hands. This went on for about 5 minutes – roll, recover, roll, recover. I only wish that I could have gotten a good photo. I took about a million but they are all fuzzy. Boo. Only one week to go, I’m already getting sad about leaving. I don’t think I will ever have an experience like this again and its impossible to absorb all of the experiences at once – I wish I could have a video of everything I have seen/heard since I arrived in Uganda to look back on when I start to tell myself that it was all too good to be true.

Almost forgot – quick tour of the camp:
Exhibit A: Shower. The barrel to the right is filled with water and then wood from the forest is shoved beneath it then lit at about 5:30. There is a pipe leading from the barrel to the shower head inside, so when it is warm
you just turn the nozzle and have a lovely little shower. You can see the tree canopy from inside, so its not uncommon to watch blue monkeys or colobus running around in the forest while you take your shower.
Exhibit B: The kids. Lots of fun, some very shy and others very bold. All scared of baboons but all willing to throw rocks at them to keep them away from the kitchen. I cant describe how strange it is to see a 6 year old barking at a male baboon twice his size.
Exhibit C: Home sweet home and a game of tag. Funny how some games are the same in every corner of the world. Behind is the house that includes my room, the director’s office, the ‘museum’ (lots of skeletons, snakes, butterflies, and even a few baby primates in formaldehyde, most victim to infanticide), and an empty bedroom. You can kinda see the solar panels on the roof – that’s how Im able to write this right now and why I wasn’t able to get any work done yesterday when it was raining. The big thing out front is the rainwater catchment, used for washing clothes, dishes, teeth, floors, for cooking, and filtered in the kitchen for drinking.

(Zak)

Monday, August 17, 2009

Football, abstinence and monkey hunting

Had a big meeting for the Budongo Football Challenge 2009, or I guess I should say they let me tag along. It was in a little villaige about 45 minutes away, the primary school allowed us to use it to organize the teams for the championship. It was supposed to start at 2:00 but since people here run on Africa time it started around 4:15. And I thought my dad was bad…
Basically the challenge is to promote education about the forest. The project does a lot of community development things – chicken raising projects, goat raising project, a youth center, school programs, whatever. The winning village of the challenge gets 400,000 shillings ($200) to put towards a new program of their choosing. It’s a cool project and the people here are really into their football, so it was fun to be around all the excitement. I think they wondered what I was doing there haha.
(will insert photo of footballers here - internet isnt cooperating at the moment and I only have 5 minutes left of battery)

The chimps have been super active the past few days – turns out that since the community is more centralized than usual that there is an adequate number of males to form hunting parties, so they have been hunting for Black and White Colobus for about 3 days. I believe they have gotten at least 4. Its sad and kind of morbid to watch but its really quite fascinating; its very rare for them to form hunting parties like these, especially in this community, and it’s a normal part of the cycle here. I guess they just need the protien. I’m just glad I’m not the one collecting samples from the remains for DNA work. Ick. Maggots are super quick here – aside from bananas you have to eat your fruit and veggies within a few days or they will be crawling with little worms. So you can only imagine what the remains of the baby chimp carcass looked like after 4 days (the females wouldn’t drop it, they apparently wouldn’t believe it was dead).

It has been super hot and humid here, sometimes I forget how close to the equator I am because the trees make it so much cooler than it would be otherwise, but today was a scorcher. Luckily we are getting into rainy season so there has been a thunderstorm almost every night for the past week. It never rains super hard for long, and the wind isnt all that bad, but they get great thunder and lightning here. Its so nice to smell the rain coming at about this time of day. Oooooh and there is this flower, they call it the night rose, and the smell is absolutely intoxicatingly yummy. I wish I could bottle it. You can smell it from every corner of the camp when it blooms at night. Took me a while to find out which plant it was though - one of those things where it was almost stronger of a scent 3 meters away from the bush than standing right next to it. I wish I could send scents over the internet. Someone needs to invent that.